Conventional, organic, biodynamic, natural wine: what are the differences?

Here is a question that comes up (very) regularly! It must be said that the proliferation of labels does not really help the consumer to find their way... AB, HVE, Terra Vitis, Biodyvin, Demeter... follow the guide to better understand the differences between all these cultivation methods and their labels.

Conventional wines

So-called " conventional " agriculture is currently the most widespread in France and represents nearly 80% of the vineyard. This allows winemakers to use numerous chemical products in the vineyard (synthetic pesticides, non-organic fertilizers, etc.) and during winemaking (non-organic yeasts, various types of acids, oenological tannins, etc.). A large number of additives can thus be used to correct possible defects in a wine. In addition, the maximum permitted doses of sulfur dioxide (the well-known sulfites), used to better preserve wines, are higher compared to organic or biodynamic agriculture. However, it is important not to generalize. While some industrial groups or less scrupulous winemakers use these products out of habit or with the intention of producing more, this does not mean that all conventional agriculture estates operate this way—far from it.

Indeed, most wine estates using this cultivation method define themselves as practicing “sustainable agriculture”. Without going into too much detail, this expresses the winemaker’s desire to limit the number of inputs and to find a balance between respecting nature and production.

The main labels corresponding to this type of agriculture are “Terra Vitis” and “HVE” (High Environmental Value). While some consider these as a form of “greenwashing ”, they can also be seen as a first step towards organic farming.

Organic wines

Organic farming currently represents about 19% of French vineyards and has been experiencing significant growth for several years now. It imposes notably stricter rules for vineyard management but also for winemaking (which was not the case before 2012).

Indeed, unlike conventional farming,  synthetic pesticides are strictly prohibited here and the maximum authorized doses of sulfites are also limited compared to so-called "classic" agriculture (-25% for whites and -33% for reds). Moreover, the number of inputs that can be used during winemaking is also reduced, and these must, of course, be certified organic.

However, please note: organic farming is not a zero-pesticide method. Indeed, it is important to distinguish between synthetic pesticides (from chemicals) and natural pesticides (of plant, animal, or mineral origin). In organic farming, only the latter are permitted. Some treatments used are, moreover, subject to debate, notably the use of Bordeaux mixture and therefore copper, a fungicide that does not degrade in the environment. Finally, organic certification does not take into account the carbon footprint of the  estates, a point on which some winegrowers practicing sustainable agriculture are sometimes more advanced.

Nevertheless, it is widely accepted that managing a vineyard using organic farming methods is much more environmentally friendly than following the conventional approach. In fact, this allows for better preservation of soil life, less pollution of groundwater, and also helps protect human health through healthier consumption (not to mention the benefits for vineyard workers and local residents).

Biodynamic wines

Biodynamics represents only a very small part of the reality of French viticulture : only 1% of the land area! The two labels certifying it are Demeter and Biodyvin. Demeter is often the most visible label, while Biodyvin aims to be more exclusive by selecting its members through tastings to also validate the quality of the proposed cuvées.

The origins of the biodynamic method date back to the 1920s, when it was theorized by Rudolph Steiner. The general idea is for the winegrower to be as non-interventionist as possible and to make their vineyard a living space in total symbiosis with its environment. Treatments in the vineyard are therefore carried out with homeopathic doses of natural products and follow the lunar calendar. In this logic, all chemical inputs are therefore banned in both viticulture and winemaking. Only sulfur dioxide may be used, but in even more restricted doses than in organic farming.

Biodynamics, however, can sometimes be criticized because its origins were not initially based on any scientific foundation. In fact, Rudolph Steiner was neither a farmer nor a winemaker, and his method is filled with esoteric, philosophical, even magical considerations ! This is why many winemakers who follow biodynamic principles focus above all on adhering to the most concrete and realistic points developed by him. 

In any case, and with a few modest years of professional tasting experience, I generally observe that when the terroir and the plant material are of high quality and when the winemaker is competent, biodynamics generally allows a much more precise expression of red wines as well as white wines and gives them a true identity. I can nevertheless fully understand that certain cuvées may surprise uninitiated palates!

Natural wines

Finally, as for natural wine, it goes even further than organic or biodynamic by completely banning all additives both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Only sulfur dioxide (SO2) is allowed, and only in minimal quantities, even lower than those permitted in biodynamics.

Within this category of natural wines, we finally find wines S.A.I.N.S (Without Any Additives or Sulfites), the latter  adhering to  the principles  of  the  natural philosophy but completely prohibiting the use of sulfites to make wine a product with almost no human or chemical intervention.

Conclusion 

As you will have understood, nuance is indeed essential in wine and the reality is sometimes more complex than a simple label. Nevertheless, the strong development of organic and, to a lesser extent, biodynamics is, in my opinion, moving in the right direction to restore a healthy viticulture, expressing a terroir and an identity while respecting nature as well as people (winegrowers and consumers).

So do not hesitate to call on La Cave Éclairée to guide you in your choices: a fine selection of  organic and biodynamic wines of quality is indeed available at your favorite online wine shop!