Beyond grape varieties and winemaking methods, one of the keys to understanding the winegrowing success of Burgundy is to be found in its unique classification system.
In this article, we invite you to explore the quality pyramid of Burgundy wines and terroirs. From the concept of "climat" to that of "Grand Cru", dive with us into the fascinating world of Burgundy wines!
Summary
Definition of the concept of "Climat" in Burgundy
Bernard Pivot, a great wine enthusiast, once said: "In Burgundy, when we talk about a Climat, we don't look up to the sky, we look down to the earth." This phrase alone sums up the classification of Burgundy wines.
Indeed, in Burgundy, the concept of "terroir" is not just a trendy word: it is part of the very DNA of the region. Each vineyard plot has its own identity thanks to its soils, orientation, and microclimate. So many elements combine to offer unique wines with infinite nuances.
But let's return to the notion of "climat". In Burgundy, this word is therefore not related to meteorology but is a technical term designating a vineyard plot , precisely delimited by man over the centuries, and recognized for its specific characteristics, whether geological, hydrometric, or related to exposure. Each "climat" is therefore a winegrowing universe in its own right.
The nuances of identity of each plot are thus found in every bottle of wine, which explains why the same grape variety (the Pinot Noir for red wines or Chardonnay for white wines) can have such varied flavors and structures from one climat to another.
Origins and history of classification in Burgundy
But then, how did these climats become so iconic? Well, while viticulture in Burgundy dates back to the Gallo-Roman era, it was in the Middle Ages that the first distinctions of plots were observed. The Benedictine and Cistercian monks, notably those from the abbeys of Cluny and Cîteaux, played a key role in organizing and improving the vineyards.
These religious orders indeed adopted a scientific and spiritual approach to wine, observing differences in quality between plots according to soils, sun exposure, or even microclimates. They then began dividing the vineyards according to their natural characteristics.
The term "climat" would only appear in writings from the 16th century. At that time, Burgundy was of course already famous for the finesse of its wines, and the segmentation of the land reflected a desire to highlight the diversity of terroirs.
In the 18th century, the mapping of the vineyards continued to develop. The "climats" then became concrete reference points for merchants and consumers. Moreover, wines began to be identified not only by their region, but by their precise place of production.
In the 19th century , the work of geologists and agronomists, such as Jules Lavalle (with his 1855 book "History and Statistics of the Vine and Great Wines of the Côte-d'Or" ), helped to enrich this classification of vineyards according to their terroir quality. These studies also reinforced the notion of "climat" as a key element in the hierarchy of Burgundy wines.
The official recognition of this centuries-old work on these terroirs accelerated in 1936 with the creation of the AOC system ( Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée ). Each climat then became linked to one (sometimes two) specific appellation.
In 2015, the "climats" of Burgundy were listed as UNESCO World Heritage : a crowning achievement for this unique model of viticulture. The listing also highlights the precision and intimacy of the link between each wine and its place of origin, the result of several centuries of observation and work.
Today, the notion of "climat" in Burgundy goes far beyond geography or agronomy. It represents a balance between man and nature, a quest for excellence based on a deep understanding of soils, grape varieties, and local conditions. With around 1,247 listed climats in the region, each plot carries a unique identity that is reflected in the glass.
Burgundy wine map
The four levels of appellations in Burgundy
Now that we have defined this important notion of "Climat" for general understanding, let's now detail the hierarchy of these and analyze the 4-level pyramid that exists in the region regarding local wines.
Regional appellations (52% of production)
In Burgundy, regional appellations form the foundation and base of the hierarchy of Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). In volume, they represent about 52% of total wine production.
While the "simple" AOC "Bourgogne" is the most important, there are nevertheless other regional appellations such as "Bourgogne Côte d'Or" for wines produced exclusively in the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, or "Bourgogne Aligoté" for cuvées made from this grape variety. "Crémant de Bourgogne" and "Coteaux Bourguignons" are also part of this level of classification.
All these wines are considered the ideal gateway to discover the region. They are often accessible and therefore perfect for wine lovers who want to taste the diversity of Burgundy without investing in overly expensive bottles. A real springboard for those wishing to become familiar with the richness and finesse of Burgundy wines!
Village appellations (36% of production)
Then, above the regional AOCs, come the "village appellations". These link the wines to the villages that produce them. Thus, Chablis, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Meursault, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet or Givry are all village appellations.
It is also possible for a winemaker to specify a specific climat of the village if the grapes for their wine come exclusively from that plot. You may therefore come across a Gevrey-Chambertin "Au Vellé" or a Chassagne-Montrachet "En Pimont". The notion of terroir thus becomes even more advanced and specific.
Wines from village appellations are often more complex and distinctive than those with regional AOC, as they are made on terroirs that are much more restrictive in terms of area.
Premiers Crus (10% of production)
Burgundy has nearly 640 climats classified as " Premier Cru ". These represent the top 10% of regional production.
The "Premier Cru" designation is given to plots for their exceptional characteristics, whether in terms of soils or exposure. It is therefore a true mark of quality and these terroirs are above the village appellations in the hierarchy.
These climats offer wines that are very diverse in their expression but often more complex and intense. The ageing potential, whether for white wines made from Chardonnay or red wines made from Pinot Noir, is also greater.
Some names may sound familiar, such as "Les Amoureuses" in Chambolle-Musigny, the 1st Cru "Clos des Mouches" in AOC Beaune or "Les Rugiens" in Pommard.
Grands Crus (less than 2% of production)
Burgundy has exactly 33 Grands Crus which represent the top of the hierarchy of Burgundy wines. These elite climats cover a total area of about 2% of the entire vineyard, or only 550 hectares.
The vast majority of Grands Crus are located in Côte de Nuits (24) -mainly red wines-, while 8 are found in Côte de Beaune -mainly white wines. Chablis also has 1 Grand Cru, divided into 7 climats.
Wines from these iconic plots are among the best in the world and their prices can reach great heights.
Why are these wines so expensive? First of all, production is extremely limited. A Grand Cru is often just a few ares for a winemaker (1 are = 100m²), a very small area on the scale of a vineyard and which allows only a few bottles to be produced. Then, global demand is very high and enthusiasts (and speculators) snap up the few available wines.
Finally, there is the land price : the land that produces these Grands Crus is among the most expensive in the world. The price can indeed range between 3 million euros and 15 million euros per hectare depending on the location and the climat in question!
Nevertheless, despite very high prices, Grands Crus offer an exceptional tasting experience, a depth of flavor as well as a complexity and longevity that can justify their price (not always).
The 33 Grands Crus of Burgundy
Here is the list of the 33 Grands Crus of Burgundy. Let's start with the 24 Grands Crus of the Côte de Nuits, mainly renowned for their sublime Pinot Noirs.
- Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Chambertin-Clos de Bèze (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Chapelle-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Charmes-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Griotte Chambertin (Gevrey Chambertin)
- Latricières-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Mazis-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Mazoyères-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Ruchottes-Chambertin (Gevrey-Chambertin)
- Clos de Vougeot (Vougeot)
- Musigny (Chambolle-Musigny)
- Bonnes-Marès (Chambolle-Musigny / Morey-Saint-Denis)
- Clos de la Roche (Morey-Saint-Denis)
- Clos Saint-Denis (Morey-Saint-Denis)
- Clos des Lambrays (Morey-Saint-Denis, quasi-monopoly of Domaine des Lambrays)
- Clos de Tart (Morey-Saint-Denis, monopoly Domaine du Clos de Tart)
- Richebourg (Vosne-Romanée)
- La Romanée (Vosne-Romanée, monopoly of Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair)
- Romanée-Conti (Vosne-Romanée, monopoly of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti)
- Romanée-Saint-Vivant (Vosne-Romanée)
- La Grande Rue (Vosne-Romanée, monopoly of Domaine François Lamarche)
- Échezeaux (Vosne-Romanée)
- Grands-Échezeaux (Vosne-Romanée)
- La Tâche (Vosne-Romanée, monopoly of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti)
Then come the 8 Grands Crus of the Côte de Beaune, mainly renowned for their great white wines.
- Corton (Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, Ladoix-Serrigny, divided into 10 climats)
- Charlemagne (Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, Ladoix-Serrigny)
- Corton-Charlemagne (Aloxe-Corton, Pernand-Vergelesses, Ladoix-Serrigny)
- Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet)
- Chevalier-Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet)
- Bâtard-Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet and Chassagne-Montrachet)
- Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet (Puligny-Montrachet)
- Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet (Chassagne-Montrachet)
Finally, outside these two areas, Chablis Grand Cru is often added to the list, but it is geographically separate, in the north of Burgundy. This Grand Cru also has 7 distinct climats that can be added to its mention: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudésir.
Map of the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation
You now know everything about the classification of Burgundy wines as well as the notions of "climat", "Premier Cru" and "Grand Cru"! As you will have understood, the Burgundy classification is a valuable guide for exploring regional treasures and finding your way among the many appellations and sub-regions.
Want to discover more about the world of Burgundy wines? Browse our site La Cave Éclairée and discover a carefully curated selection ranging from pure pleasure bottles to exceptional gems. See you soon!
