Here is the long-awaited sequel to our first part which dealt with wine classifications within the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions ! In this second chapter, we will give you this time all the keys to to understand hierarchies established within other regions with rankings: Alsace , there Champagne , there Loire and the Provence . Happy reading!
The 51 Alsatian Grands Crus
Alsace is an absolutely magnificent wine-growing land but difficult to understand. Stretching over more than 15,000 hectares between Strasbourg and Mulhouse, the region is a geological millefeuille very rich where many grape varieties are cultivated. Add to that Germanic-sounding names such as " Gloeckelberg ", " Praelatenberg » and ranges of around twenty vintages from many winemakers and you will have finished losing more than one!
So, with the aim to better structure the region and establish the beginnings of a hierarchy, 51 place names (plots ranging from 3 to 80 hectares being reputed to have the best terroirs) were gradually defined between 1975 and 2007 in order to be valued in AOC Grand Cru . Of course, the Alsatians did not wait until the 70s to become interested in their soils! Some of these geographical areas were therefore already identified in the 9th century but without any particular mention other than the name of the plot, too often unknown to the general public.
These 51 Grands Crus today represent the top 5% of production of the region and are in reality shared by many producers (except for a few monopolies). Obviously, not all wines produced there are equal! Nevertheless, if this hierarchy is not an absolute guarantee of quality (no classification is), it is nevertheless recognized that the defined terroirs are capable of producing the very best wines in the region.
It should also be noted that only 4 grape varieties can be grown on these lands: Riesling , THE Muscat , THE Pinot Gris as well as the Gewürztraminer . The only exception to this rule: the Sylvaner can be produced on the Grand Cru Zotzenberg . Finally, no blending between grape varieties cannot be carried out except on 2 Grands Crus ( Altenberg of Bergheim And Kaefferkopf ).
In summary, the notion of Grand Cru in Alsace is therefore a real good indicator for the consumer although the wines from these plots are obviously not all of the same level. Just as in Burgundy ( see previous article ), are first and foremost distinguished from geographical areas strictly delimited and often endowed among other factors with a beautiful exposure.
So don't hesitate to, for example, taste the Riesling Grand Cru Hengst from the Barmès-Buecher estate or even the magical Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler from the same house to give you an idea of the quality that these very great wines can achieve!
Grand Cru and Premier Cru in Champagne
The Champagne wine region covers approximately 34,300 hectares. From Reims to Epernay via Troyes, 9000 hectares are distinguished among this set in Premier Cru or Grand Cru , the rest having a simple designation " Believed "This hierarchy was created in 1919 (then modified in 1935) in order to establish a framework for supply negotiations between large Champagne houses.
Unlike Alsace or Burgundy, the classification into Cru, Premier Cru and Grand Cru applies here to entire communes and not to very precisely delimited plots. We thus distinguish 17 villages classified " Grand Cru » and 42 others « First growth ". So, if a Champagne is made with grapes from one or more villages classified as " Grand Cru ", it will be able to carry this mention on the bottle. Same process for a Champagne " First Growth ".
If this operation therefore enhances part of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same strength as in Burgundy or in Alsace . In fact, Grands and Premiers Crus champagne represent nearly 26% of the total area of the region, it is twice as much as in Burgundy ! Tolerance is therefore much wider here and certain plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages would probably not deserve to be classified.
Therefore, if for the consumer These mentions therefore remain a good indicator, It must once again be remembered that They are not as elitist as in some other regions.
If this operation therefore enhances part of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same strength as in Burgundy or in Alsace . In fact, Grands and Premiers Crus champagne represent nearly 26% of the total area of the region, it is twice as much as in Burgundy ! Tolerance is therefore much wider here and certain plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages would probably not deserve to be classified.
Therefore, if for the consumer These mentions therefore remain a good indicator, It must once again be remembered that They are not as elitist as in some other regions.
The Illuminated Cellar can once again help you make your choice thanks to its careful selection of Grand Cru Champagnes !
The Grands Crus sweet wines of the Loire
Very recent, the notion of Cru in the Loire is only present to date within two AOCs of Anjou .
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became the AOC in 2011 " Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru » and the place name " Thatch » within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC " Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume » .
These names produce the best whites sweet from the region , all from the Chenin blanc grape variety , harvested when overripe and botrytized (noble rot).Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these lands mainly composed of schists and sandstones and exposed due south was not simple and took almost 10 years.
Let's bet that in the years to come, other terroirs will probably emerge within the region in order to be better promoted and that the notion of Cru en Loire will no longer be reserved solely for sweet wines!
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became the AOC in 2011 " Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru » and the place name " Thatch » within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC " Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume » .
These names produce the best whites sweet from the region , all from the Chenin blanc grape variety , harvested when overripe and botrytized (noble rot).Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these lands mainly composed of schists and sandstones and exposed due south was not simple and took almost 10 years.
Let's bet that in the years to come, other terroirs will probably emerge within the region in order to be better promoted and that the notion of Cru en Loire will no longer be reserved solely for sweet wines!
The Grands Crus of Provence
Before 1955, no wine classification existed in Provence. It was only in July of that same year that a ministerial decree approved a classification of certain properties in the region.
So, in July 1955 , 23 farms (out of the 300 recorded at the time) received the distinction of " Classified Growth » according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle on the property, a minimum period for placing wines on the market as well as direct sales. Today, 18 domains continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and in a non-exhaustive manner : Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Sainte-Marguerite Castle , Clos Cibonne etc.
This ranking is not based on any qualitative criteria and is therefore very questionable and contested. . Furthermore, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification was largely inspired, all vintages from the same estate can bear the words " Classified Growth » …Let's admit that this may leave one wondering when it comes to tasting the property's entry-level vintage. In addition, and as is also the case in the Bordeaux , if one of these farms decided to buy new land, the wines produced from the latter could then still display the mention " Classified Growth ", although no control over the quality of these terroirs had been carried out !
Finally, this hierarchy is not subject to change either. . However, an update would be welcome... Indeed, the number of producers in the region having doubled since the creation of the ranking (going from 300 to 600), some of these " new » domains would most likely have their place within this presumed elite.
As you will have understood, this very questionable classification is not of great interest to the consumer when choosing their wine. However, no definitive generalization should be made and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. Examples include the superb rosé, white and red vintages of Sainte-Marguerite Castle .
So, in July 1955 , 23 farms (out of the 300 recorded at the time) received the distinction of " Classified Growth » according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle on the property, a minimum period for placing wines on the market as well as direct sales. Today, 18 domains continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and in a non-exhaustive manner : Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Sainte-Marguerite Castle , Clos Cibonne etc.
This ranking is not based on any qualitative criteria and is therefore very questionable and contested. . Furthermore, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification was largely inspired, all vintages from the same estate can bear the words " Classified Growth » …Let's admit that this may leave one wondering when it comes to tasting the property's entry-level vintage. In addition, and as is also the case in the Bordeaux , if one of these farms decided to buy new land, the wines produced from the latter could then still display the mention " Classified Growth ", although no control over the quality of these terroirs had been carried out !
Finally, this hierarchy is not subject to change either. . However, an update would be welcome... Indeed, the number of producers in the region having doubled since the creation of the ranking (going from 300 to 600), some of these " new » domains would most likely have their place within this presumed elite.
As you will have understood, this very questionable classification is not of great interest to the consumer when choosing their wine. However, no definitive generalization should be made and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. Examples include the superb rosé, white and red vintages of Sainte-Marguerite Castle .
Conclusion
You now know almost everything about the many wine classifications of our beautiful French regions. All you have left is practice so that all your new knowledge does not remain purely theoretical . Go to The Illuminated Cellar !
