Here is the long-awaited sequel to our first installment, which dealt with the wine classifications within the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions ! In this second chapter, we will provide you with all the keys to understand the hierarchies established within other regions with classifications: Alsace, Champagne, Loire, and Provence. Enjoy your reading!
The 51 Alsatian Grands Crus
Alsace is an absolutely magnificent wine region but difficult to grasp.Spanning over 15,000 hectares between Strasbourg and Mulhouse, the region is a very rich geological layer cake where many grape varieties are cultivated.Add to this names with Germanic sounds such as "Gloeckelberg", "Praelatenberg " and ranges of about twenty cuvées at many winemakers, and you'll end up confusing more than a few!
Thus, in order to better structure the region and establish a beginning of hierarchy, 51 lieux-dits (plots ranging from 3 to 80 hectares reputed to have the best terroirs) were progressively defined between 1975 and 2007 to be promoted as AOC Grand Cru.Of course, the Alsatians did not wait until the 1970s to take an interest in their soils! Some of these geographical areas were already identified as early as the 9th century, but without any particular mention other than the name of the plot, which is often unknown to the general public.
These 51 Grands Crus today represent the top 5% of the region's production and are actually shared by many producers (except for a few monopolies). Obviously, not all wines produced there are of equal quality! Nevertheless, while this hierarchy is not an absolute guarantee of quality (no classification is), it is still recognized that the defined terroirs have the capacity to produce the very best wines of the region.It is also worth noting that only 4 grape varieties can be cultivated on these lands: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. The only exception to this rule is Sylvaner, which can be produced on the Grand Cru Zotzenberg. Finally, no blending between grape varieties can be done except on 2 Grands Crus (Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf).
In summary, the notion of Grand Cru in Alsace is therefore a real good indicator for the consumer although the wines from these plots are obviously not all of the same level. Just like in Burgundy (see the previous article), geographical areas are primarily distinguished strictly defined and often endowed, among other factors, with a good exposure.
Do not hesitate to, for example, taste the Riesling Grand Cru Hengst from the Barmès-Buecher estate or the magical Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steingrubler from the same house to give you an insight into the quality that these great wines can achieve!
Grand Cru and Premier Cru in Champagne
The Champagne wine region covers approximately 34,300 hectares. From Reims to Epernay via Troyes, 9,000 hectares are distinguished among this ensemble as Premier Cru or Grand Cru, with the rest having a simple "Cru" designation. This hierarchy was created in 1919 (and modified in 1935) to establish a framework for supply negotiations between major Champagne houses.
Unlike in Alsace or Burgundy, the classification into Cru, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru applies here to entire communes and not to very precisely defined plots. Thus, 17 villages are classified as "Grand Cru" and 42 others as "Premier Cru". Therefore, if a Champagne is made with grapes from one or more villages classified as "Grand Cru", it can bear this mention on the bottle. The same applies to a "Premier Cru" Champagne.
If this approach therefore highlights some of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same strength as in Burgundy or in Alsace. Indeed, Grands and Premiers Crus in Champagne represent nearly 26% of the total area of the region, which is twice as much as in Burgundy ! The tolerance is therefore much broader here, and some plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages probably do not deserve to be classified.
Consequently, while for the consumer these mentions remain a good indicator, it must be remembered once again that they are not as elitist as in some other regions.
If this approach therefore highlights some of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same strength as in Burgundy or in Alsace. Indeed, Grands and Premiers Crus in Champagne represent nearly 26% of the total area of the region, which is twice as much as in Burgundy ! The tolerance is therefore much broader here, and some plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages probably do not deserve to be classified.
Consequently, while for the consumer these mentions remain a good indicator, it must be remembered once again that they are not as elitist as in some other regions.
The sweet Grand Crus of the Loire
Quite recent, the notion of Cru in the Loire is currently present only within two AOCs of Anjou.
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became in 2011 the AOC “ Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru” and the locality “ Chaume ” within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC “ Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume”.
These appellations produce the best sweet white wines of the region, all made from the Chenin blanc grape variety, harvested in over-ripeness and botrytized (noble rot). Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these terroirs, mainly composed of schists and sandstones and facing due south, was not simple and took nearly 10 years.
Let's bet that in the coming years, other terroirs will likely emerge within the region to be better valued and that the notion of Cru in Loire will no longer be reserved only for sweet wines!
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became in 2011 the AOC “ Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru” and the locality “ Chaume ” within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC “ Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume”.
These appellations produce the best sweet white wines of the region, all made from the Chenin blanc grape variety, harvested in over-ripeness and botrytized (noble rot). Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these terroirs, mainly composed of schists and sandstones and facing due south, was not simple and took nearly 10 years.
Let's bet that in the coming years, other terroirs will likely emerge within the region to be better valued and that the notion of Cru in Loire will no longer be reserved only for sweet wines!
The Grands Crus of Provence
Before 1955, no wine classification existed within Provence. It was only in July of that same year that a ministerial decree approved a classification of certain properties in the region.
Thus, in July 1955, 23 estates (out of the 300 recorded at the time) received the distinction of « Cru Classé » according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle at the property, a minimum delay for market release of the wines, and direct sales. Today, 18 estates continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and in a non-exhaustive manner : Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Château Sainte-Marguerite, Clos Cibonne etc.
This classification is based on no qualitative criteria, making it very contestable and contested.Moreover, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification has largely drawn inspiration, all the cuvées from the same estate can bear the mention "Cru Classé" on their bottle... Let's admit that this might leave one pondering when it comes to tasting the entry-level cuvée of the property. Furthermore, as is also the case in Bordeaux, if one of these estates decided to purchase new lands, the wines produced from these could still display the mention "Cru Classé", even though no quality control of these terroirs has been conducted!
Finally, this hierarchy is not subject to change. Yet an update would be welcome...Indeed, the number of producers in the region has doubled since the creation of the ranking (from 300 to 600), and some of these "new" estates would very likely have their place within this presumed elite. You will therefore understand that this very questionable ranking does not hold much interest for the consumer when choosing their wine. Nevertheless, one should not make definitive generalizations, and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. For example, the superb rosé, white, and red cuvées from Château Sainte-Marguerite.
Thus, in July 1955, 23 estates (out of the 300 recorded at the time) received the distinction of « Cru Classé » according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle at the property, a minimum delay for market release of the wines, and direct sales. Today, 18 estates continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and in a non-exhaustive manner : Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Château Sainte-Marguerite, Clos Cibonne etc.
This classification is based on no qualitative criteria, making it very contestable and contested.Moreover, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification has largely drawn inspiration, all the cuvées from the same estate can bear the mention "Cru Classé" on their bottle... Let's admit that this might leave one pondering when it comes to tasting the entry-level cuvée of the property. Furthermore, as is also the case in Bordeaux, if one of these estates decided to purchase new lands, the wines produced from these could still display the mention "Cru Classé", even though no quality control of these terroirs has been conducted!
Finally, this hierarchy is not subject to change. Yet an update would be welcome...Indeed, the number of producers in the region has doubled since the creation of the ranking (from 300 to 600), and some of these "new" estates would very likely have their place within this presumed elite. You will therefore understand that this very questionable ranking does not hold much interest for the consumer when choosing their wine. Nevertheless, one should not make definitive generalizations, and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. For example, the superb rosé, white, and red cuvées from Château Sainte-Marguerite.
Conclusion
You now know almost everything about the numerous wine classifications of our beautiful French regions. All that's left is practice so that all your new knowledge doesn't remain purely theoretical. Visit
