Here is the long-awaited sequel to our first part which dealt with wine classifications within the Bordeaux and Burgundy regions! In this second chapter, we will give you this time all the keys to understand the established hierarchies within the other regions with classifications: Alsace, Champagne, Loire and Provence. Happy reading!
The 51 Alsatian Grands Crus
Alsace is an absolutely magnificent wine-growing region, but one that is difficult to grasp. Stretching over more than 15,000 hectares between Strasbourg and Mulhouse, the region is a very rich geological millefeuille where many grape varieties are grown. Add to that Germanic-sounding names such as “Gloeckelberg”, “Praelatenberg ” and ranges of around twenty cuvées from many winegrowers and you will have finished losing more than one!
Thus, in order to better structure the region and establish a beginning of hierarchy, 51 localities (plots ranging from 3 to 80 hectares being reputed to have the best terroirs) were gradually defined between 1975 and 2007 in order to be valued in AOC Grand Cru. Of course, Alsatians didn't wait until the 1970s to take an interest in their soils! Some of these geographical areas were therefore already identified as early as the 9th century, but without any particular mention except for the name of the plot, which is too often unknown to the general public.
These 51 Grands Crus now represent the top 5% of production in the region and are actually shared by many producers (with the exception of a few monopolies). Of course, not all the wines produced there are created equal! Nevertheless, if this hierarchy is not an absolute guarantee of quality (no classification is), it is still recognized that the defined terroirs are able to produce the very best wines of the region.
It should also be noted that only 4 grape varieties can be grown on these lands: Riesling, Muscat, the Pinot Gris as well as the Gewürztraminer. The only exception to this rule: the Sylvaner can be produced on the Grand Cru Zotzenberg. Finally, no blending between grape varieties can be made except on 2 Grands Crus (Altenberg de Bergheim and Kaefferkopf).
In summary, the concept of Grand Cru in Alsace is therefore a real good indicator for the consumer although the wines from these plots are obviously not all of the same level. In the same way as in Burgundy (see the previous article), are above all distinguished between geographical areas delimited strictly and often endowed, among other factors, with a good exposure.
So don't hesitate to taste, for example, the Riesling Grand Cru Hengst from the Barmès-Buecher estate or the magical Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Steinrubler from the same house to give you an idea of the quality that these very great wines can achieve!
Grand Cru and Premier Cru in Champagne
The Champagne vineyard covers approximately 34,300 hectares. From Reims to Epernay via Troyes, 9000 hectares are distinguished among this set as Premier Cru or Grand Cru, the rest having a simple appellation "Cru". This hierarchy was created in 1919 (then modified in 1935) in order to set a framework for supply negotiations between large Champagne houses.
Unlike Alsace or Burgundy, the Cru, Premier Cru and Grand Cru classification applies here to entire communes and not to very precisely demarcated parcels. There are thus 17 villages classified as "Grand Cru" and 42 others as "Premier cru". Thus, if a Champagne is made with grapes from one or more villages classified as "Grand Cru", it may bear this mention on the bottle. Same process for a "Premier Cru" Champagne.
While this functioning therefore enhances part of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same force as in Burgundy or in Alsace. Indeed, Champagne Grands and Premiers Crus represent almost 26% of the total surface area of the region, it is twice as much as in Burgundy! The tolerance is therefore much wider here and some plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages would probably not deserve to be classified.
Consequently, if for the consumer these references are still a good indicator, we must once again keep in mind that they are not as elitist as in some other regions.
While this functioning therefore enhances part of the terroirs producing the best grapes, the value of the notion of Cru in Champagne does not have the same force as in Burgundy or in Alsace. Indeed, Champagne Grands and Premiers Crus represent almost 26% of the total surface area of the region, it is twice as much as in Burgundy! The tolerance is therefore much wider here and some plots within Premier or Grand Cru villages would probably not deserve to be classified.
Consequently, if for the consumer these references are still a good indicator, we must once again keep in mind that they are not as elitist as in some other regions.
La Cave Éclairée can once again help you make your choice thanks to its careful selection of Grand Cru Champagnes!
The sweet Grands Crus of the Loire
Very recent, the concept of Cru in the Loire is present to date only within two AOC of Anjou.
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became in 2011 the AOC "Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru" and the lieu-dit "Chaume" within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC "Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume ».
These appellations produce the best sweet whites in the region, all made from Chenin blanc , harvested in overripe and botrytised (noble rot). Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these terroirs mainly composed of shale and sandstone and facing due south was not easy and took nearly 10 years.
We bet that in the years to come, other terroirs will probably emerge within the region in order to be better valued and that the concept of Cru en Loire will no longer be reserved solely for sweet wines!
The AOC Quarts-de-Chaume thus became in 2011 the AOC "Quarts-de-Chaume Grand Cru" and the lieu-dit "Chaume" within the AOC Coteaux-du-Layon became the AOC "Coteaux-du-Layon Premier Cru Chaume ».
These appellations produce the best sweet whites in the region, all made from Chenin blanc , harvested in overripe and botrytised (noble rot). Representing only 120 hectares, the classification of these terroirs mainly composed of shale and sandstone and facing due south was not easy and took nearly 10 years.
We bet that in the years to come, other terroirs will probably emerge within the region in order to be better valued and that the concept of Cru en Loire will no longer be reserved solely for sweet wines!
The Grands Crus of Provence
Before 1955, no wine classification existed within Provence. It was not until July of that same year that a ministerial decree approved a classification of certain properties in the region.
Thus, in July 1955, 23 farms (out of the 300 listed at the time) received the distinction of "Cru Classé" according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle at the property, a minimum time to market for wines as well as direct sales. Today, 18 domains continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and not exhaustively: Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Château Sainte-Marguerite, Clos Cibonne etc.
This ranking is not based on any qualitative criteria, so it is very questionable and disputed. Moreover, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification was largely inspired, all cuvées from the same estate can bear the mention "Cru Classé" on their bottle... Let's admit that this may leave you wondering when it comes to tasting the property's entry-level cuvée. In addition, and as is also the case in Bordelais, if one of these estates decides to buy new land, the wines produced from these lands could then still bear the mention "Cru Classified", although no control relating to the quality of these terroirs had been done!
Finally, this hierarchy is also not subject to change. However, an update would be welcome. Indeed, with the number of producers in the region having doubled since the ranking was created (from 300 to 600), some of these "new" estates would most likely fit right in with this presumed elite.
You will therefore have understood that this very debatable classification is not of great interest to the consumer when choosing his wine. Nevertheless, we should not make definitive generalizations and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. For example, the superb rosé, white and red cuvées from Château Sainte-Marguerite.
Thus, in July 1955, 23 farms (out of the 300 listed at the time) received the distinction of "Cru Classé" according to 4 criteria : the history of the estate, the obligation to bottle at the property, a minimum time to market for wines as well as direct sales. Today, 18 domains continue to claim this mention, 5 of them having since disappeared. Among this list and not exhaustively: Minuty, Château Roubine, Domaine de la Croix, Château Sainte-Marguerite, Clos Cibonne etc.
This ranking is not based on any qualitative criteria, so it is very questionable and disputed. Moreover, unlike the Bordeaux classification of 1855 from which this Provençal classification was largely inspired, all cuvées from the same estate can bear the mention "Cru Classé" on their bottle... Let's admit that this may leave you wondering when it comes to tasting the property's entry-level cuvée. In addition, and as is also the case in Bordelais, if one of these estates decides to buy new land, the wines produced from these lands could then still bear the mention "Cru Classified", although no control relating to the quality of these terroirs had been done!
Finally, this hierarchy is also not subject to change. However, an update would be welcome. Indeed, with the number of producers in the region having doubled since the ranking was created (from 300 to 600), some of these "new" estates would most likely fit right in with this presumed elite.
You will therefore have understood that this very debatable classification is not of great interest to the consumer when choosing his wine. Nevertheless, we should not make definitive generalizations and some classified properties still produce some of the best wines in the region. For example, the superb rosé, white and red cuvées from Château Sainte-Marguerite.
Conclusion
You now know almost everything about the many wine classifications of our beautiful French regions. All you have left is the practice so that all your new knowledge does not remain purely theoretical. Go to The Lighted Cellar!
