Chenin: the most noble white grape variety of the Loire

Ah, Chenin (or Ch'nin for friends), here is a noble white grape variety that reminds me of certain tourist trips in the Loire and even a nice trip to South Africa! Because yes, we French sometimes tend to think that there is not much in terms of wine outside France (or let's be nice, Europe). Yet, as you will see, Chenin is proof of that! Explanations and travel around the world.

Chenin, where are you from?

A white variety capable of producing dry to sweet as well as sparkling wines, Chenin is a variety of grape that lovers of the Loire know it well. It originates there and is the majority (and very often the only) grape variety for all the white wines of Anjou-Saumur.

Like many varieties, its origin remains uncertain. We nevertheless have written traces attesting to its presence in Anjou from the 9th century thanks to period documents naming it "Plant d'Anjou".

We then find it at the end of the 15th century in Touraine, at the Château de Chenonceau, where it seems to have acclimatized particularly well. Its name would also come from this property, unless it is from the monastery of Mont-Chenin where it was also cultivated at the same time. Immortalized in literature by Rabelais and his famous Gargantua, its success will not weaken over the centuries even if it is a grape variety which is today in decline on a global scale.

In any case, one thing is certain: if the genetic analyzes do not make it possible to precisely date its appearance, they show very clearly that it is a direct descendant of savagnin (you know, the famous Jura grape variety we talked about in the article on yellow wine 😉).

Map of the Loire Valley AOCs

Chenin, where are you?

First, in France of course and especially in the Loire Valley where its vines cover 9,000 hectares. The grape variety is also at the (often exclusive) origin of the production of white wines from 27 AOCs in the region, including Vouvray, Montlouis, Savennières and Quarts-de-Chaume . Still in France, it is also found in the Languedoc where it is used in the blend of Crémant and Blanquette de Limoux.

Internationally, Chenin is present in the United States (Central Valley, California) and in Argentina (South Mendoza) but it rarely has a leading role here.

To tell the truth, it is a grape variety with a rather surprising geography... Very little present in Europe outside of France, it is nevertheless one of the rare varieties (along with malbec) to be more established outside its country of origin. And yes, as mentioned earlier, it is in South Africa that Chenin is king!

Arrived in the 17th century with the first Dutch settlers, it will experience significant growth thanks to the arrival of the French Huguenots who will enhance it. There, “the steen”, as it is called, represents 18% of the national grape varieties and more than 53% of the world’s plantations! It has in fact adapted particularly well to the hot climate of Cape Town and although in fairly strong decline for several decades (18,500 hectares today against 30,000 in the 90s), it still continues to radiate there. and produces some of the best white wines in the country.

Chenin, how do you taste ?

In terms of aromatics, the excellent "Aromabook of wine" by Sandrine Audegond lists, among others, the following aromas concerning it: lemon, lime, peach, pear, apple, linden, acacia, hawthorn, honeysuckle etc. To this already provided list, one could also add quince, which is a frequent marker of chenin when young, or even pineapple, mango or honey for wines with a high sugar concentration, especially when the berries are subject to botrytis cinerea (noble rot). As it ages, it may even have hints of gingerbread!

And what about the difference between a Chenin from Loire and a Chenin from South Africa you ask me? (thank you for helping me in the construction of this article). Well, the climates being quite opposite between Anjou and Africa, a "steen" will present aromas of riper (even exotic) fruits as well as a much denser substance in the mouth while a Chenin de Loire will appear comparatively fresher and will have a more marked acidity. In short, a priori, not much to do between the wines of the two countries but the two terroirs share the same love for the same grape variety.

Chenin partially affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea)

Chenin, what do you agree with?

Acting as an all-terrain grape variety, Chenin is capable of sublimating your various dishes throughout the meal! As an aperitif, the pretty bubbles of Vouvray Brut from Domaine Pinon or the white charmer " En Chenin" from the Ogereau estate will, for example, open your taste buds wonderfully.

As main course, their Savennières "Clos du Beaupréau" can go superbly with prawns, lobster, river fish and even certain refined white meats such as veal.

For spicy cuisines requiring richer and more concentrated vintages, it will be fashionable to favor more gourmet and structured wines containing residual sugars such as demi-sec " Black flint ” or “The soft ” from the Pinon estate.

Finally, a sweet wine such as a Coteaux du Layon or a Quarts-de-Chaume will amaze you with foie gras or a dessert such as a apricots.

I told you, a real 4x4!

Conclusion

You will have understood that, despite its incredible potential as well as its strong presence in the Loire as well as in South Africa (more than 80% of the world's plantations), the "Ch'nin" is not very "trendy" globally based on the number of hectares planted worldwide.

However, it is a noble, rich and delicate grape variety capable of producing very varied wines that any connoisseur should discover! You have no more excuses, your next glass of white will be a Chenin! See you soon at The Illuminated Cellar!