Conventional, organic, biodynamic, natural wine: what are the differences?

Here is a question that comes up (very) regularly! It must be said that the proliferation of labels does not really help the consumer to find their way... AB, HVE, Terra Vitis, Biodyvin, Demeter... follow the guide to better understand the differences between all these cultivation methods and their labels.

Conventional wines

The so-called "conventional" agriculture is currently the most widespread in France and represents nearly 80% of the vineyard. This allows winemakers to use many chemical products on the vine (synthetic pesticides, non-organic fertilizers, etc.) and during winemaking (non-organic yeasts, different types of acids, oenological tannins, etc.).A large number of inputs can thus be used to correct possible defects in a wine. Moreover, the maximum authorized doses of sulfur dioxide (the famous sulfites), used to better preserve wines, are higher compared to organic or biodynamic agriculture.

However, it is important not to generalize. If some industrial groups or less  scrupulous winegrowers use these  products out of habit or a desire to produce more, it does not mean that all conventional agriculture domains are in this case, far from it.

Indeed, most wine-growing properties  using this cultivation method define themselves as practicing “sustainable agriculture ”.Without going into too much detail, this expresses the winemaker's desire to limit the number of inputs and find a balance between respecting nature and production.

The main labels corresponding to this type of agriculture are “Terra Vitis” and “HVE” (High Environmental Value). While some consider these as a form of “greenwashing ”, they can also be seen as a first step towards organic.

Organic wines

Organic farming currently represents about 19% of French vineyards and has been experiencing significant growth for several years now.This imposes stricter rules of conduct in the vineyard but also in winemaking (which was not the case before 2012). Indeed, unlike conventional agriculture, synthetic pesticides are strictly prohibited here and the maximum authorized doses of sulfites are also limited compared to so-called "classic" agriculture (-25% for whites and -33% for reds). Furthermore, the number of inputs that can be used during winemaking is also reduced, and they must, of course, be certified organic. However, be careful: organic farming is not a zero-pesticide method.Indeed, it is important to distinguish between synthetic pesticides (chemical-based) and natural pesticides (of plant, animal, or mineral origin). In organic farming, only the latter are permitted. Some treatments used are debated, notably the use of Bordeaux mixture and thus copper, a fungicide that does not degrade in the environment. Finally, organic certification does not take into account the carbon footprint of the  estates, a point on which some winemakers practicing sustainable agriculture are sometimes more advanced.

Nevertheless, it is widely  acknowledged that managing a vineyard with organic farming is much more environmentally friendly  than following the conventional path.This indeed allows for better preservation of soil life, less pollution of groundwater, and the protection of human health through healthier consumption (not to mention the benefits for vineyard workers or local residents). Biodynamic wines Biodynamics represent only a very small part of the reality of French viticulture: only 1% of the surfaces! The two certifying labels are "Demeter" and "Biodyvin".Demeter is often the most visible label, while Biodyvin aims to be more elitist by selecting its members through tastings to also validate the quality of the proposed vintages.

The origins of the biodynamic method date back to the 1920s when it was theorized by Rudolph Steiner. The general idea is for the winemaker to be as non-interventionist as possible and to make their vineyard a living space in total symbiosis with its environment. Treatments in the vineyard are therefore done with homeopathic doses of natural products and follow the lunar calendar. In this logic, all chemical inputs are therefore banned in viticulture as well as in winemaking. Only sulfur dioxide can be used but in even more restricted doses than in organic farming.

Biodynamics can, however, sometimes be criticized because its origins were initially not based on any scientific foundation. Indeed, Rudolph Steiner was neither a farmer nor a winemaker, and his method is filled with esoteric, philosophical, even magical considerations ! This is why many winemakers following biodynamic principles focus primarily on adhering to the most concrete and realistic points developed by him. 

In any case,  and with a few modest years of professional tasting experience,  I generally find that  when the terroir and the plant material are of quality and when the wine maker is competent, biodynamics generally allows a much more precise expression of the wines and gives them a real identity.I can, however, completely understand that certain vintages may surprise uninitiated palates! Finally, as for natural wine, it goes even further than organic or biodynamic by purely and simply prohibiting all additives in the vineyard as well as in the cellar. Only sulfur dioxide (SO2) is allowed in minimal quantities but even lower than those allowed in biodynamics. Within this category of natural wines, we finally find the S.A.I.N. wines.S (Without Any Additives or Sulfites), these latter adhering to the principles of natural philosophy but completely prohibiting the use of sulfites to make wine a product with almost no human or chemical artifice.

Conclusion 

You will have understood, nuance is indeed necessary in wine and the reality is sometimes more complex than a simple label. Nevertheless, the strong development of organic and, to a lesser extent, biodynamics is, in my opinion, going in the right direction to restore a healthy viticulture, expressing a terroir and an identity while respecting nature as well as people (winemakers and consumers).

Do not hesitate to reach out to La Cave Éclairée to guide you in your choices: a fine selection of  organic and biodynamic wines of quality is indeed available at your favorite online wine shop!