If the
Viognier is today
a variety firmly established in France as well as internationally, it almost disappeared in the 20th century. In fact, there were only
8 hectares left in 1965! The reasons?
Phylloxera, a pest insect attacking the roots of the vine, which decimated a large part of the European vineyard at the end of the 19th century, but also
World War I which caused a massive abandonment of the vineyard.
Fortunately,
Viognier was replanted significantly from the 1980s and today covers
2,500 hectares in France.Certainly, this is little compared to the 112,000 hectares of
Merlot, the 80,000 hectares of
Syrah or the 58,000 hectares of
Chardonnay planted in the country. Nevertheless, the production of Viognier is now much better established... and is gaining momentum!
But then, where does this grape variety come from? In which French regions is it present? Where is it planted abroad? What are its aromas? What should it be paired with at the table and how should it be perfectly served? You will find answers to all these questions in this article.
Welcome to the kingdom of Viognier!
The Rhône Valley: kingdom of Viognier
Let's cut to the chase: if there's one region to keep in mind when it comes to Viognier, it's definitely the Rhône Valley! Its history is indeed closely linked to this superb wine-growing area, and its cultivation dates back to the beginning of our era.
As mentioned in the introduction, it was close to extinction during the 20th century, but fortunately, from the 1980s, winemakers in the region, convinced of its great potential as well as its aromatic nobility, began to replant it.
Today, this delicious white grape variety notably extends over 105 hectares within its
master appellation Condrieu, located in the northern Rhône Valley. Additionally, Viognier is also present on a few hectares within
the AOC Côte Rôtie (where it can be used up to 20% in blending with
Syrah) as well as within the single-estate micro-appellation
Château Grillet.
Finally, it has also spread to the southern part of the Rhône Valley, similar to the AOC
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but also to the regional appellation
Côtes-du-Rhône where the majority of the vineyards are concentrated in the southern Rhône region.
Still in France, it is also found in Languedoc-Roussillon or even in Provence and in Corsica. Internationally, it is well established in California, in Australia, in South Africa as well as in European countries like Italy, Spain and Greece.
So, you will have understood, Viognier is very popular, and this beyond our borders.But then, what are the qualities of this grape variety that have allowed its revival?
The taste characteristics of Viognier
If the Viognier is a particularly appreciated grape variety, it is notably for its aromatic profile, offering
seductive, indulgent, and generous white wines.Indeed, it has
quite low acidity as well as a
creamy texture on the palate. Moreover, its usual expression includes
stone fruit notes (peach, apricot, mirabelle, pear, etc.), honey, as well as
floral aromas (hawthorn, violet, honeysuckle, etc.).Under warm climates, an exotic hue may even appear with
notes of banana or mango.
Finally, when this grape variety undergoes oak barrel aging (which is regularly the case, especially in Condrieu), oak aromas, butter, sweet spices, and vanilla emerge in its aromatic profile. It's hard to be more indulgent than that, isn't it?
So, as you can see, Viognier is a flavorful and agreeable grape variety...and that's exactly why it can appeal to both novices and seasoned enthusiasts alike!
What to eat with Viognier?
At the table, Viognier is a superb companion, able to adapt to a wide variety of dishes.
First of all, a Viognier expressing itself with indulgence and simplicity on fruity notes will make an excellent companion for appetizers, seafood, and cold starters. For example, one can very well imagine delicious pairings with oysters, green asparagus, or even fresh goat cheeses with a glass of this wonderful Rhone varietal.
Moreover, while for many years Viognier was perceived as a grape variety offering its best in its youth, perceptions have greatly changed since then... and rightly so!