Is the identification of wine by an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée a guarantee of quality? Well...not really! Let's first review some definitions.
The differences between labels
-The AOC is the recognition that all the production stages of a product are carried out according to a recognized expertise in the same geographical area (terroir). It legally protects these elements at the French territory level.
In wine, an AOC also defines production rules.Among them, limits on yields, methods of vine cultivation, a minimum ripeness of grapes required at harvest, the use of one or more specific grape varieties, a minimum aging period, or even a taste typicity that consumers are expected to anticipate from the product.
For example, a white wine in AOC Sancerre must meet a certain number of criteria to be able to display this name on its bottle. First, the grapes used for its production must come from a very specific geographical area (here 14 possible communes in only one department, Le Cher).It is defined in the specifications of the appellation that a white Sancerre must be made from 100% Sauvignon grape variety and must, as stated in the specifications of the appellation, "exude a certain freshness and its aromas can range from citrus to floral notes, including exotic fruits." - The AOP (Protected Designation of Origin) is the equivalent of the AOC at the European level. It therefore guarantees the same thing as the AOC but within the entire European Union. - The IGP (Protected Geographical Indication) is a European label like the AOP, but its criteria for obtaining are less strict.
For example, the IGP Val-de-Loire covers 14 departments and a white wine from this IGP can be made from the Sauvignon grape variety but also from Chardonnay, Chenin, Melon de Bourgogne, Pinot Blanc, Folle Blanche, etc. These grape varieties can be blended to produce the same wine if desired, which is absolutely not the case for a wine in AOC Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé!
Vines in Sancerre
Stop the generalizations!
Now that the definitions are clearer, let's get back to business.In 1935, the creation date of the AOC system, the goal was to protect the consumer by guaranteeing a certain quality and legally preventing certain frauds at a time with very few regulations.
Today, the AOC remains (mainly) useful for highlighting a geographical origin rather than a level of quality. Indeed, with the hygienic and scientific advancements made over the last century, almost all winemakers with vineyards in the right location are able to meet the standards established by an AOC.
Another limiting aspect of the AOC: the standardization of taste. As developed a little earlier, wines from the same AOC must meet certain common taste criteria.The wines from an estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape are therefore tasted by professionals (a tasting committee) to ensure they meet the expectations of wines from this region (power, depth, richness, etc.). While this can obviously be positive to avoid promoting certain wines unworthy of the "Châteauneuf" brand, it can also eliminate more original wines of great quality that do not meet the set tasting criteria.This issue drives several winemakers each year, tired of these limiting taste barriers, to permanently leave their AOC and label their bottles simply as "Vin de France" (which can be excellent)!
Thus, the AOC system can also be seen as a hindrance to creativity in a world where tradition reigns.
The scale of qualitative truth: the domain
You will have understood, the scale of truth is therefore that of the domain and not that of the AOC. One may prefer wines from one region or another, but saying "the wines from Haut-Médoc are excellent while those from Muscadet are bad" does not make sense.In each of these AOCs, there are demanding and passionate producers, while others turn to the production of more common and soulless wines.
Therefore, taste, share, be curious, and do not take your purchases as the main criterion for your purchases the sole concept of appellation! And if you have any questions, do not hesitate to reach out to
