Chenin: the noblest white grape variety of the Loire

Ah, the Chenin (or Ch’nin for those in the know), here is a noble white grape variety reminding me of certain tourist trips in the Loire and even a lovely journey to South Africa ! Because yes, we French sometimes tend to think that there isn't much in terms of wine outside of the Hexagon (or let's be kind, Europe). However, as you will see, Chenin is indeed proof of this ! Explanations and a journey around the world.

Chenin, where do you come from ?

White grape variety capable of producing wines from dry to sweet as well as sparkling wines, Chenin is a grape variety well known to Loire enthusiasts.It is indeed native and is the predominant (and very often the sole) grape variety for all the white wines of Anjou-Saumur.

Like many varieties, its origin remains uncertain. However, we have written records attesting to its presence in Anjou as early as the 9th century thanks to period documents referring to it as " Plant d’Anjou ".

We then find it at the end of the 15th century in Touraine, at the Château de Chenonceau, where it is said to have acclimated particularly well. Its name might actually come from this property, unless it originated from the Mont-Chenin monastery where it was also cultivated during the same period.Immortalized in literature by Rabelais and his famous Gargantua, its success will not wane through the centuries even if it is a grape variety that is currently declining on a global scale.

In any case, one thing is certain: if genetic analyses do not allow us to precisely date its appearance, they very clearly show that it is a direct descendant of the savagnin (you know, the famous Jura grape variety we talked about in the article on yellow wine 😉).

Map of AOC of the Loire Valley

Chenin, where are you ?

Firstly, in France of course and especially within the Loire Valley where its vines cover 9,000 hectares. The grape variety is also the (often exclusive) origin of the production of whites from 27 AOCs in the region including Vouvray, Montlouis, Savennières, and Quarts-de-Chaume. Still in France, it is also found in the Languedoc where it is part of the blend for Crémant and Blanquette de Limoux.

Internationally, Chenin is present in the United States (Central Valley, California) and in Argentina (South Mendoza) but it rarely plays the leading role here.

In fact, it is a grape variety with a rather surprising geography... Very little present in Europe outside of France, it is nevertheless one of the few varieties (along with Malbec) to be more established outside its country of origin. And yes, as mentioned earlier, it is in South Africa that Chenin is king !

Arriving in the 17th century with the first Dutch settlers, it experienced significant growth thanks to the arrival of French Huguenots who highlighted it.Over there, « the steen », as it is called, represents 18% of the national grape variety and more than 53% of the world's plantations ! It has indeed adapted particularly well to the warm climate of the Cape and, although it has been in quite a significant decline for a few decades (18 500 hectares today compared to 30,000 in the 1990s), it still continues to shine there and produces some of the best white wines in the country.

Chenin, what taste do you have ?

In terms of aroma, the excellent « Aromabook of Wine » by Sandrine Audegond lists, among others, the following aromas concerning it : lemon, lime, peach, pear, apple, linden, acacia, hawthorn, honeysuckle, etc.To this already provided list, one could also add quince, which is a frequent marker of young Chenin, or even pineapple, mango, or honey for wines with a high concentration of sugars, especially when the berries are subject to botrytis cinerea (noble rot). As it ages, it can even present notes leaning towards gingerbread !

And what about the difference between a Loire Chenin and a South African Chenin you may ask ? (thank you for helping me in constructing this article). Well, with the climates being quite opposite between Anjou and Africa, a " steen " will present riper (even exotic) fruit aromas and a much denser texture on the palate, while a Loire Chenin will appear fresher in comparison and have a more pronounced acidity.In short, a priori, not much to see between the wines of the two countries, but the two terroirs do share the same love for the same grape variety. Chenin partially affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea) Chenin, what to pair it with? Serving as an all-terrain grape variety, Chenin is capable of enhancing your various dishes throughout the meal! As an aperitif, try the lovely bubbles from the Vouvray appellation, like the delicious Brut from Domaine Pinon or even their dry wines.

As a main course, a beautiful Chenin from the Chinon appellation (often known for its reds but less for its whites)  can  notably pair superbly with prawns, lobster, river fish, and even some refined white meats like veal. Consider, for example, the Fabrice Gasnier estate!

For spicy cuisines requiring richer and more concentrated wines, it would be wise to favor more indulgent and structured wines containing residual sugars, such as off-dry or sweet wines. 

Finally, a sweet wine like a Coteaux du Layon or a Quarts-de-Chaume will delight you with foie gras or a dessert like an apricot tart.

As I was saying, a true 4x4 !

Conclusion

You will have understood, despite its incredible potential and its strong presence in the Loire as well as in South Africa (more than 80% of the world's plantations), the "Ch'nin" is not very "trendy" on a global level if we rely on the number of hectares planted worldwide.

Yet, it is a noble, rich, and delicate grape variety capable of producing very diverse wines that every enthusiast must discover ! You have no more excuses, your next glass of white will be a Chenin ! See you soon at La Cave Éclairée!