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Chenin: the noblest white grape variety of the Loire

Ah, the Chenin (or Ch'nin for short), here is a noble white grape variety reminding me of certain tourist trips in the Loire and even a nice trip to South Africa  ! Because yes, we French sometimes tend to think that there is not much in terms of wine outside of France (or let's be kind, Europe). However, as you will see, Chenin is proof of this.  ! Explanations and travel around the world.

 

Chenin, where are you from?  ?

White grape variety capable of producing dry wines at sweet as well as effervescent , Chenin is a variety of grape that Loire lovers know well. It is in fact native to the Loire and is the majority (and very often the only) grape variety for all white wines from Anjou-Saumur.

Like many varieties, its origin remains uncertain . However, we have written evidence of his presence. in Anjou from the 9th century thanks to period documents naming him "  Anjou plant  ".

We find him again later at the end of the 15th century in Touraine, at the Château de Chenonceau , where it would have acclimatized particularly well. Its name would also come from this property, unless it originated from the monastery of Mont-Chenin where it was also cultivated at the same time. Immortalized in literature by Rabelais and his famous Gargantua, its success would not weaken through the centuries even if it is a grape variety that is today losing ground on a global scale.

In any case, one thing is certain: if genetic analyses do not allow us to date its appearance precisely, they show very clearly that it is a direct descendant of the savagnin (you know, the famous Jura grape variety that we talked about in the article on yellow wine 😉 ).

Carte AOC Val de Loire Map of AOCs of the Loire Valley

Chenin, where are you?  ?

Firstly, in France of course and especially in the Loire Valley where its vines cover 9,000 hectares. The grape variety is also the origin (often exclusive) of the production of white wines from 27 AOCs in the region  of which Vouvray , Montlouis, Savennières or even Quarts-de-Chaume. Still in France, we find it also in the Languedoc where the latter is included in the blend of Crémant and Blanquette de Limoux.

Internationally, Chenin is present in the United States (Central Valley, California) and in Argentina (South Mendoza) but he rarely plays the leading role here.

In fact, it is a grape variety with a rather surprising geography... Very little present in Europe outside of France, it is nevertheless one of the rare varieties (with the malbec ) to be more established outside its country of origin. And yes, as mentioned previously, It is in South Africa that Chenin is king  !

Arrived in the 17th century With the first Dutch settlers, it will experience significant growth thanks to the arrival of the French Huguenots who will develop it.Over there, "  the stone  » , as it is called, represents 18% of the national grape varieties and more than 53% of the world's plantations  ! It has in fact adapted particularly well to the hot climate of the Cape and although in fairly sharp decline over the last few decades (18  500 hectares today compared to 30,000 in the 1990s), it still continues to shine there and produces some of the best white wines in the country.

 

Chenin, what do you taste like? ?

In terms of aroma, the excellent "  Wine Aromabook  » by Sandrine Audegond lists, among others, the following aromas concerning him  : lemon, lime, peach, pear, apple, lime, acacia, hawthorn, honeysuckle etc. To this already extensive list, we could also add quince which is a frequent marker of Chenin in its youth or even pineapple, mango or honey for wines with a high sugar concentration, especially when the berries are subject to botrytis cinerea ( noble rot ) As it ages, it can even exhibit notes of gingerbread.  !

And what about the difference between a Chenin from the Loire and a Chenin from South Africa you will ask me  ? (thank you for helping me in the construction of this article). Well, the climates being quite opposite between Anjou and Africa, a "  stone  » will present aromas of riper (even exotic) fruits as well as a much denser substance in the mouth while a Chenin from the Loire will seem fresher in comparison and will have a more marked acidity. In short, a priori,  not much to see between the wines of the two countries but the two terroirs share the same love for the same grape variety. 

Chenin pourriture noble Chenin partially affected by noble rot (botrytis cinerea)

Chenin, what to pair with it?  ?

Acting as all-terrain grape variety , Chenin is capable of enhancing your different dishes throughout the meal! In aperitif , the pretty bubbles of the Vouvray Brut from the Pinon estate or the white charmer "  In Chenin  " of Ogereau domain for example, will open your taste buds wonderfully.

In main course , their Savennières "  Clos du Beaupréau  » will be able to  particularly goes superbly with prawns, lobster, river fish and even certain refined white meats like veal.

On some spicy cuisines requiring richer and more concentrated vintages, it would be a good idea to favor more gourmet and structured wines containing residual sugars such as semi-dry "  Black flint  " Or "  The softness  » from the Pinon estate.

Finally, a sweet wine like a Layon hillsides or a Quarts-de-Chaume will amaze you on a foie gras or a dessert like an apricot tart.

I told you, a real 4x4  !

 

Conclusion

You will have understood, despite its incredible potential as well as its strong presence in the Loire as well as in South Africa (more than 80% of global plantations), the "  Ch'nin  " is not very "  tendency  " at the global level if we rely on the number of hectares planted across the world.

However, it is a noble, rich and delicate grape variety capable of producing very varied wines that every wine lover should discover.  ! You have no more excuses, your next glass of white will be a Chenin  ! See you soon at  The Illuminated Cellar !

Fan de Chenin

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1 comment

Merci pour cet article très complet ! Le Chenin, un des plus grands cépages de France trop méconnu…

Jacques Cohen

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