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Jura yellow wine: history and production

Every first weekend in February, nearly 30  000 visitors converge on the Jura . What big event moves crowds to this extent?  ? The Breakthrough of Yellow Wine of course  ! Celebrated each year in turn in one of the region's producing villages, the ceremony celebrates the "  drilling  » (opening made in a barrel to extract the wine) after six years and three months of aging, the minimum time required to be able to put the famous wine on sale.

The ceremony is an opportunity for the public to taste yellow wines and Jura wines in numerous cellars where most of the producers set up for the occasion.

But how did we come to celebrate the yellow wine  ? What is its history? Where and how is it made?  ? What does it taste like?  ?  You will find all the answers to these questions in this less than 5-minute read.

 

History of Vin Jaune

The history of yellow wine begins with a legend  : she tells that a winemaker who had abandoned a barrel at the bottom of his cellar was very pleasantly surprised, many years later, by the delicious flavor of the nectar obtained. It would therefore be the fruit of chance that gave birth to the  yellow wine  ? If the story is enjoyable, it is probably too good to be true.

Unfortunately, to date, very little evidence is available to confirm the precise origin of this wine . Indeed, if the first written trace documenting vin jaune only dates back to 1822, we nevertheless know that its existence is more distant because the oldest bottle of vin jaune found dates back to 1774. Some assumptions even date its origins back to the 13th century.  !

Finally, the famous "  Yellow wine breakthrough  » was only created in 1996 by winemaker Bernard Badoz in order to honor the subtlety and complexity of this  precious golden nectar. If his primary desire was to create a real evening of discovery and tasting, it must be admitted that The event has since lost its luster and more often turns into drunkenness. (in the same way as the festivities organized for Beaujolais nouveau).

    

Vin jaune Arbois 1774 Oldest bottle of yellow wine sold for €103,700 at auction in 2018

Manufacturing & winemaking

While the history of this wine remains fairly mysterious overall, it is nevertheless easier to understand its production and vinification. First of all, vin jaune comes (as you must have understood) from the Jura, a small wine-growing region extending over 80 kilometers, and can be produced within 4 AOC: Côtes du Jura, Star, Arbois as well as Château-Chalon whose 50 hectares are dedicated solely to its production.

Furthermore, it is a wine produced from a single and unique local grape variety  : THE savagnin . If this grape can be vinified in a “  classic  " in order to make one fruity wine and saline, a completely different profile of aromas will emerge when it is produced as yellow wine.

To bear the name "  yellow wine  ",  the savagnin  will have to be aged in oak barrels for at least 6 years and three months without topping up .Topping up is a method of filling a barrel as the wine contained in the barrel evaporates (the famous "topping up").  angels share  ") with the same wine of a similar quality. This process protects the wine during aging from oxidation (the wine being in contact with more oxygen in the barrel if it is not completely filled).

Here, thanks to this non-topping, a veil of yeast will form on the surface of the liquid in the barrel, thus protecting the wine from excess oxygen. It is this atypical and  long aging in barrels which will give this famous taste of “  YELLOW  » to wine with complex and unique aromas.

Once the vinification is complete, our nectar will be bottled in a specific format  : the clavelin, a beautiful bottle with the appearance of "  old school  » 62 cl . Why this capacity? Quite simply because after evaporation during this long aging (cf. "  angels share  »), there would theoretically be 62 cl of wine left for each liter vinified at the start.

Vin jaune sous voile  Yeast veil developing in an untopped barrel

A wine with a unique taste

Be careful with the first sip of yellow wine! It's a surprising and divisive nectar which amateurs love but can be very confusing for beginners. Without residual sugar (dry), powerful aromas emanate from the nose and are confirmed in the mouth  : It is A heady and intense drink whose usual markers are green apple, nutmeg, cinnamon but especially dried fruits (nuts, almonds) and curry .

It is also preferable to open early or serve in a carafe to fully enjoy a bottle. In addition, be sure to Do not consume yellow wine too cold  ! The ideal serving temperature is between 14° and 16°C (like a light red).

Sufficient in itself when tasting, vin jaune is in my eyes particularly interesting at the table where it will make a magnificent partner. Combining very well with spicy Asian dishes, nothing will nevertheless sublimate it better than the classic pairings associating it with a matured county 12 months or even with a chicken with morels  : sublime  !

 

To remember

Yellow wine is a white wine from the Savagnin grape variety aged for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months in barrels under a veil of yeast which will give it all its aromatic complexity (green apple, nuts, curry etc.). It is bottled in a 62 cl bottle called "  clavelin  " Of great intensity, it is a drink of a incredible guard  being able to improve in the cellar for several decades (or even several centuries). 

As you will have understood, you must taste this unique wine at least once in your life.  ! To do this, The Illuminated Cellar offers you yellow wine from Jérôme Arnoux Estate  : a superb bottle of great complexity, wonderfully representing  what a good yellow wine should be.

Health  !

Jérôme Arnoux - Cellier des Tiercelines - Arbois - Vin Jaune 2016

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4 comments

Vin de Jura, long en bouche, un élixir pour le palais, lorsque l’on y a gouté nous voulons en avoir en réserve.

Gisèle D'Amours

Bonjour Hervé,

d’autres cépages permettent également la production de “vins de voile” (Vin Jaune étant une sémantique réservée au Jura) et le savagnin n’est donc pas le seul élu. Pour exemple, le domaine Plageoles dans le Sud-Ouest à Gaillac réalise un vin de voile à partir du cépage Mauzac. En Espagne, et bien que le procédé de fabrication ne soit pas exactement similaire, la région d’Andalousie propose de nombreux vins de voile (Xérès) réalisés avec le cépage Palomino.

Le Jura n’a donc pas de particularité de terroir pour permettre le développement de certaines levures, ce sont simplement le contrôle des températures dans les chais ainsi que le suivi précis du vieillissement des vins qui permettront de réaliser un vin jaune ou un vin de voile.

En espérant avoir répondu à votre question !

À bientôt,

Maxime, La Cave Éclairée

Anonymous

Pourquoi est ce seulement le savagnin du jura qui puisse permettre cet elevage sous voile ?
Est ce que ce vignoble a des particularités dans le developpement de ce type de levure ?
Merci de votre réponse

herve

Très intéressant merci pour cet article !

René Bouvier

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