Which enthusiast has never heard of Châteauneuf-du-Pape ? This appellation resonates in history, and its papal origins are as engraved in its name as on its prestigious bottle.
Why is it " the wine of the Popes " ? What grape varieties are used ? What to expect in tasting ? What is the long history of the appellation? Presentation.
History of Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Today a flagship of the wine heritage of the southern Rhône Valley and France, the history of the region's vineyard dates back to Antiquity, where the vine was very likely already present.
Nevertheless, the real recognition of local wines only begins in the 14th century, when Avignon officially becomes the residence of the popes. Indeed, it was in 1314 that Clement V left Rome and its geopolitical instability to settle in France. Avignon was chosen for its strategic location, being at the crossroads of major routes and having a river access connecting northern Europe to the south.
While Clement V was the first pope of Avignon, it was his successor, John XXII, who allowed the wines of the area to shine at the renowned table of the Palais des Papes as well as in the great European courts.From that moment, the rise of Châteauneuf wines continued through the centuries, enduring difficult periods such as the religious wars in the 16th century and regaining their splendor during the 18th century.
The other major turning point occurred at the beginning of the 20th century, when local winemakers, eager to protect their wines (sometimes mixed with those from other regions), decided in 1923 to implement stricter regulations, unique for the time. With the help of Pierre Baron Le Roy, a renowned winemaker of the appellation and a jurist, they gave birth to the modern concept of AOC.A few years later in 1936, the decree of the appellation will be officially published and Châteauneuf-du-Pape will become the very first wine AOC in France, alongside Monbazillac, Tavel, Arbois and Cassis.
Geography and Terroir
The vineyard of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is entirely planted on the left bank of the Rhône. It currently covers about 3,200 hectares and is located in 5 communes : Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Bédarrides, Courthézon, Orange, and Sorgues. About 95% of the harvest is vinified in red and 5% in white.
The Mediterranean microclimate of the region is particularly warm and the annual sunshine is very high : 3 400 hours (compared to 1 700 hours in Paris…). The vines are generally pruned in a goblet shape to protect the grapes from wind and sunburn.
Vines pruned in goblet shape on rolled pebble soils
Talking about Châteauneuf-du-Pape also means mentioning its famous iconic terroir of rolled pebbles. These stones release all the heat they store during the day at night, thus promoting a high maturity of the grapes. However, Châteauneuf is not limited to this type of soil.The appellation indeed has a very varied geological millefeuille: red clay, limestone shards, sandstone, and even sands are also very present. These would even represent 30% of the soils of the appellation! So be cautious of shortcuts. Finally, one of the essential characteristics of the AOC is the frequency of the Mistral. This cold and dry wind coming from the north dries the vineyard, thus limiting the spread of cryptogamic diseases due to humidity. Châteauneuf is also known for its great variety of grape varieties: 13, or 18 if we count the color variations by type of grapes (picpoul noir/picpoul blanc, clairette blanche/clairette rose, etc.).If a few rare vintages are made with all the available varieties (like the wine from the iconic Château de Beaucastel), the majority of the production comes from 3 main grape varieties: Grenache Noir (60% of the vineyard), Mourvèdre, and Syrah. On the white side, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Clairette make up the majority of the planting.
Châteauneuf-du-Pape : what types of wines ?
It is impossible to reduce Châteauneuf-du-Pape to a single style ! While under the same sun, the wines will have in common concentrated berries that produce generous and fleshy wines with intense aromas, within the AOC there are very opulent cuvées as well as models of refinement. Many factors can indeed differentiate the wines produced : the winemaker's philosophy, the soils, the composition of the blends, or even the cultural practices multiply the field of possibilities.
If we were to generalize, we would describe red wines as powerful, intense, full-bodied, and offering a wide aromatic palette ranging from ripe black fruits to warm spicy notes. Whites, on the other hand, are generally low in acidity and present a beautiful gourmet roundness. Like reds, they are capable of evolving very positively in the bottle over several years or even decades.
Conclusion
Châteauneuf-du-Pape is therefore one of the most beautiful appellations in France and is capable of producing wines that proudly represent the world's elite.
If you absolutely must try the reds, be curious and also dare to try the whites, which might pleasantly surprise you ! If you are looking for excellent Châteauneuf in both red and white with top value for money, turn to the Pierre Usseglio estate, which will delight you ! Finally, for great enthusiasts, the Château de Beaucastel is a must-try at least once in a lifetime.
Cheers ! 🍷
Anecdote : The first written traces of the village of Châteauneuf date back to 1094. At the time, the town was called " Castro novo " (New fortified village).In the 13th century, it became Châteauneuf-Calcernier, and it was not until 1893, at the request of the mayor at the time, Joseph Ducos, that the town took its current name, thus referring to the holiday residence of the Popes. As for the bottle proudly bearing the town's coat of arms, it was created in 1937 (one year after the official creation of the AOC) to promote the appellation internationally and is a guarantee of the wines' authenticity. It features a papal tiara placed above the keys of Saint Peter.
1 comment
Très interessant et bien documenté