Just like France, Spain is a country whose history and culture are closely linked to viticulture.
Among the many Spanish wine regions, Rioja holds a prominent place. Nestled in the north of the country, the eponymous appellation is indeed very renowned for its elegant and complex red wines. Nevertheless, it also produces, albeit in small quantities, quality white and rosé wines.
In this article, we will delve into Rioja, examining its history, wines, climate, terroir, as well as the differences the region presents compared to its illustrious neighbor, Ribera del Duero. We will also look into the ideal food and wine pairings with the local vintages.
¡ Buen viaje ! (Bon voyage)
History of the Rioja Appellation
The history of viticulture in the Rioja region dates back to Antiquity, when the Phoenicians, and later the Romans introduced the vine to the area.
However, it was not until the Middle Ages, under the influence of monasteries and religious orders, that the vineyard truly began to develop. Indeed, the first written mention referring to the vine in the region dates back to the 9th century AD.
In the 13th century, the first wines from Rioja began to be exported beyond its borders. Then, from the 15th century onwards, regional trade began to significantly focus on viticulture.
Over the centuries, Rioja continued to gain in reputation, eventually becoming in the 19th century one of the first regions in Spain to establish wine production regulations.
A few decades later, in 1925, the controlled designation of origin "Rioja" was officially created (DOC, Denominación de Origen Controlada). It is one of the first in Spain. In 1991, it achieved the supreme status of Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), a distinction granted to only one other wine region in Spain : Priorat.
Today, Rioja is probably the most well-known Spanish wine designation in the world.
Map of Spanish vineyards with Rioja in the north-central part
The wines of DOCa Rioja
La Rioja is primarily renowned for its red wines. These account for 90% of the regional production and are mainly made from the Tempranillo grape variety.
With a medium acidity, Tempranillo has a thick skin and offers aromas of red and black fruits (plum, prune, blackberry, blackcurrant, etc.), tobacco, chocolate, and even pepper.
This allows for the production of a whole range of wines, from the fruity cuvée to be enjoyed in its youth to the great aging wine that can improve over decades. Aging in oak barrels (mainly American) is very common for this grape variety, bringing notes of vanilla, cinnamon, clove, etc.
Representing 80% of the regional grape variety, Tempranillo is often associated with other complementary varieties such as Grenache (Garnacha), Mazuelo (Carignan), Graciano, or even Maturana Tinta. It is with these same 5 grape varieties that the rosés of Rioja are also produced.
But Rioja is also known for its delicious white wines.The grape variety Viura is predominant for this color, but other varieties are also planted, such as Grenache blanc (Garnacha blanca), Malvasia, Tempranillo blanco, and, although less commonly used, Chardonnay and Sauvignon. In total, 9 white grape varieties can be used.
Finally, sparkling wines are also produced in the region and can be made from the 14 grape varieties of the appellation.
The aging of wines within Rioja
In Spain, wines can be classified into several categories according to their aging duration in barrels and bottles : Joven, Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva.Although these mentions can be used throughout the country, Rioja has the specificity of having established an even more demanding specification for their use. Wines with the mention "Joven" are young wines, little or not aged in barrels, highlighting the freshness of the fruit. No minimum aging period in barrels or bottles is required here, whether for reds, whites, or rosés. Red wines bearing the mention "Crianza" must be aged for a minimum of two years, including at least one year in oak barrels.White and rosé wines with this designation must also undergo a minimum aging of two years in total, including 6 months in barrels. Crianza wines generally present fruity aromas but also woody notes.
- Red wines with the designation “ Reserva ” must undergo a minimum aging in barrels and bottles of at least three years. Of these three years, at least one year must be spent in barrels, complemented by 6 months in bottles. For whites and rosés, the minimum aging must be two years in total, with 6 months mandatory in barrels.The wines in this category are complex age-worthy wines and exhibit a great aromatic richness (fruity, woody, and also tertiary notes like leather, tobacco, or truffle).
- Finally, the red wines « Gran Reserva » represent the viticultural elite of the region and are only produced during the best vintages. These must undergo a total aging of at least 5 years, including 2 years in barrels and 2 years in bottles. For whites and rosés, the total aging is a minimum of 4 years, including 6 months in barrels. Regardless of their color, the "Gran Reserva" are great age-worthy wines with incredible aromatic richness.
Summary table of wine aging mentions from Rioja
Climate and terroirs of Rioja
The climate of Rioja is continental, characterized by hot and dry summers as well as harsh winters. Precipitation is moderate here, and the temperature variations between day and night promote optimal grape ripening.
The appellation covers more than 63,000 hectares within the provinces of Rioja, Alava, and Navarre, and is divided into three main zones: Rioja Alta, Rioja Oriental (formerly Rioja Baja), and Rioja Alavesa.
- Rioja Oriental: located in the east and also known as Rioja Baja, this area experiences a hot and dry climate and has nutrient-poor soils. The wines produced here are the densest and most concentrated of the appellation.
- Rioja Alta: located in the west, this region enjoys a cooler climate than Rioja Oriental, allowing for the production of elegant wines with beautiful acidity. The vines are planted here at an altitude between 400 and 500m, and the soils are clay-limestone.
- Rioja Alavesa: nestled in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria, this region benefits from a climate similar to that of Rioja Alta, but the wines are more intense, while still maintaining finesse.The soils are rocky and the vines are also located between 400 and 500m in altitude.
The differences between Rioja and Ribera del Duero
La Rioja and the Ribera del Duero are the two flagship wine regions of Spain. Both located in the north of the country, they are therefore often compared and contrasted. However, while the two appellations share certain commonalities, several factors differentiate them.
First of all, while both Rioja and Ribera del Duero have Tempranillo as their signature grape variety (also known as Tinta Fina in Ribera del Duero), the other varieties in the two regions are not common. Thus, while Grenache, Mazuelo, and Graciano are used in Rioja, French varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec are preferred in Ribera del Duero.
Moreover, the climate of Ribera del Duero is much more continental than that of Rioja and is therefore characterized by much more significant temperature extremes. Rioja benefits from a certain oceanic influence, allowing its wines to retain freshness.As a result, the wines of Ribera del Duero are more powerful and dense than those of Rioja.
From a wine aging perspective, the estates in both regions almost systematically age their wines in barrels. However, the type of wood used for these aging processes is often different. Thus, in Ribera del Duero, French oak is predominantly used, while in Rioja, wines generally age in contact with American oak, imparting more pronounced spicy and exotic notes (vanilla, coconut, etc.).
Therefore, you will understand that although some common points unite the two vineyards, many differences build the uniqueness of the two appellations.
What to pair with Rioja wines?
Thanks to their aromatic diversity, Rioja wines are versatile and pair very well with a wide variety of dishes.
Thus, for a cuvée labeled « Joven » primarily evolving on fruit, poultry is an ideal pairing, just like a charcuterie board or even a veal roast or pork chops with herbs.
For more powerful and complex wines like Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva, red meat becomes almost a must. The power and aromatic intensity of these cuvées indeed require dishes with a certain structure.Thus, rib of beef, wild boar, pheasant, or lamb chops will pair divinely well with this type of cuvées.
On the cheese side, we recommend this time to favor white wines or rosés from Rioja. Their structure and fruity notes will indeed pair very well with Manchego, Ossau-Iraty, or even Beaufort or Comté. Red wines can also be tried, but be careful not to select bottles that are too tannic!
Finally, still with rosés and white wines, seafood, poultry, and grilled fish will also make a good match.
The best Rioja
As you may have guessed, Rioja is a fascinating wine region that combines tradition and innovation to produce world-class wines.
If you wish to explore it, many estates are available to you, but we particularly recommend Bodegas Muga, a renowned name in the region known for crafting exceptional wines. Their vintages indeed provide an excellent insight into what Rioja has to offer.Complexity, elegance, and longevity are indeed present !
¡ Salud ! And see you soon at