Cognac and Armagnac: histories and differences

Cognac and Armagnac are two French eaux-de-vie aged in oak barrels (with the exception of Blanche d’Armagnac) and derived from the same raw material, white grapes. Nevertheless, each of them has its own unique identity and a very rich centuries-old history. Here is a summary that will help you better understand the uniqueness of these two spirits. Location, organization & climate 300 kilometers separate Cognac and Armagnac. Indeed, while the latter is produced in the Southwest of France, Cognac originates from the North of Bordeaux, mainly from the departments of Charente and Charente-Maritime.

This difference in location implies a climatic difference: Cognac enjoys a particularly oceanic climate (relatively high rainfall, low annual temperature variations) while Armagnac benefits from a more continental area (lower rainfall, greater annual temperature variations).

From an organizational perspective, the AOC Cognac is divided into 6 crus : Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bons Bois, and Bois Ordinaires. The most sought-after crus are those located around the town of Cognac: Grande Champagne & Petite Champagne. 

The AOC Armagnac is composed of 3 sub-regions: Bas Armagnac, Haut Armagnac, and Armagnac Ténarèze. 

These distinctions were created due to slight differences in terroir as well as the quality of the eaux-de-vie produced. However, be careful not to generalize too much, as the quality of the final product depends more on the quality of the vineyard and the distiller's expertise than on any notion of cru.

 

Numerical Comparisons

Comparing the Armagnac and Cognac markets is somewhat like comparing David and Goliath.

Indeed, while the  vineyard area of Cognac covers  75,000 hectares, Armagnac only covers 15,000, five times less. Furthermore, the Cognac market represents approximately  3.5 billion euros in revenue for nearly 200 million bottles. In comparison, Armagnac seems quite small with an artisanal production of 6 million bottles (30 times less) and a revenue of 40 million euros (85 times less). Finally, while Cognac is a market decidedly focused on export (98% of its volumes), France still represents 50% of the Armagnac market.

However, the differences between these two spirits cannot be reduced to a numbers game.Indeed, each of these spirits has a unique history, a distinct distillation process, as well as different terroirs and taste markers.

 

History of Cognac and Armagnac

Cognac : As early as the 15th century, thanks to the Charente River, Dutch ships regularly came to stock up on wines from the region. However, these wines did not withstand long sea journeys well. To address this issue, the Dutch decided to distill these wines. They first did it in Holland and named the product "brandwijn" (burnt wine), which later became "brandy", a wine spirit.They will subsequently install stills in Charente, allowing the product to travel in the form of unalterable eau-de-vie.

In the 18th century, the market began to organize, and it was during this period that most of the major houses were created: Martell (1715), Rémy Martin (1724), Hennessy (1765), etc. In 1860, under the impetus of Napoleon III and thanks to the signing of a trade treaty between France and England, Cognac began a meteoric rise.

Historically, Cognac has always been an export product : first for the Dutch, then for our English friends. Even today, its production is exported to 160 countries, with the United States as the number 1 customer.Furthermore, unlike Armagnac, Cognac is a very concentrated market: the top 4 trading houses (Martell, Rémy Martin, Hennessy, Courvoisier) represent 90% of the market! 

Armagnac : From a historical perspective, Armagnac is older than Cognac. The spirit is also considered the oldest in France thanks to writings dating back to 1310. It was then called "Aygue Ardente" (or simply eau-de-vie). 

If the 15th century marks the beginning of its commercialization, it is in the 18th century that the market began to flourish. At that time, the Dutch (once again!) sailed up the Garonne and signed their first contract with winemakers from Gers for the purchase of wines.Fearing competition, the Bordelais intercept the convoys descending the river under the pretext that no wine other than Bordeaux can be transported by waterway. If wine is prohibited,  spirits are not , and thus the significant distillation of wines begins in the Gascogne region. The Dutch then purchase large quantities of alcohol in Armagnac to enrich and stabilize the wines they supply to the peoples of Northern Europe.  Armagnac then becomes a true commercial product subject to the fluctuations of good or bad years. To smooth out the quality, it is decided to reserve the spirits in wooden barrels. The benefits of aging are then discovered: color, roundness and aromas.

 

Terroir & grape varieties

The cognac soils are known to be very calcareous while the armagnac terroir is more diverse: mainly sandy, some areas are also clay-limestone and clay-siliceous.

In terms of grape varieties, ugni blanc represents 98% of the Cognac vineyards. It has high acidity and low sugar content, which meet the criteria sought for distillation. It can be complemented by other grapes such as Colombard, Folle blanche, and a few other very minor varieties.

Armagnac, on the other hand, has a more varied composition: while Ugni blanc is also very present (55%), 9 other grape varieties can be used, including notably Baco (35%) and also Folle Blanche and Colombard. This diversity is due to the winemaking tradition of the region, which also produces tasting wines, while the Cognac region only produces wine intended for distillation.

 

Distillation

To obtain a cognac, a double distillation in copper pot stills (called Charentais stills) is mandatory.

If Armagnac can also use this method, the distillers in the region predominantly use  short column stills  allowing for a unique continuous distillation.

We will not delve into overly technical considerations here, but it is important to note that no method can be judged as more qualitative than the other. Indeed, when it comes to obtaining a quality eau-de-vie, the key elements remain above all the quality of the grape and the distiller's expertise.

 

Taste markers & age indications

If markers exist for these two spirits, it can nevertheless be complex for tasters (even professionals) to distinguish a Cognac from an Armagnac blind, particularly for those that have undergone long aging in oak barrels. There is therefore no shame if you have ever confused the two!

Cognac is generally identified by aromas of raisins or violet. For Armagnac, prune and more pronounced floral aromas can allow for its identification. The older these spirits get, the more they tend towards common aromatics of candied fruits and orange peel. 

Finally, while it is common to produce vintage Armagnacs (bearing the mention of a specific harvest year), it is much less common for Cognac. It is also worth noting that each of these spirits can carry mentions guaranteeing a number of years of aging:

 

What to choose?

While several elements bring Cognac and Armagnac together, many differences also characterize them, allowing us to enjoy two spirits with a unique character, representing French expertise worldwide.

Some may appreciate perhaps a Cognac XO with a rich and complex aroma.Some will prefer the floral, spirited, and fragrant aspect of a young Armagnac. There's only one way to know what you like: tasting.

For these spirits, La Cave Éclairée works with two exceptional houses:  the Cognacs Guy Lhéraud as well as the Armagnacs Baron Gaston Legrand.

Feel free to contact our services for advice!